Travel Guide: Banff National Forest

Getting to Banff: The Journey from Calgary

Your adventure begins the moment you land at Calgary International Airport (YYC). From there, it’s a straightforward and incredibly scenic drive to Banff. Expect the drive to take approximately 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the town of Banff, depending on traffic and weather conditions. The journey is about 145 km (90 miles) and primarily follows the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1). As you leave the city behind, you’ll witness the flat prairies give way to rolling foothills, with the majestic Rocky Mountains slowly coming into view on the horizon—a truly spectacular welcome.

Its crazy driving that road, its so similar to driving through Denver toward the Rocky’s!

Park Fees and Best Time to Visit

Banff is a national park, and as such, there is a fee to enter year-round. This fee helps maintain the park’s facilities and services. You can purchase a daily pass or a Discovery Pass, which provides access to all of Canada’s national parks for an entire year.

• Daily Pass: This is the best option for short visits. The cost is approximately $10.50 per adult per day, with discounts for seniors and families. My recent experience in July 2025, entry was free!
• Discovery Pass: If you plan on visiting other national parks in Canada or staying in Banff for an extended period, the annual Discovery Pass is a great value. The cost is approximately $72.25 per adult, or $145.25 for a family/group.

For up-to-date pricing and to purchase your pass online, check the official Parks Canada website.

The Tale of Two Seasons: Winter vs. Summer

As you’ve discovered, Banff transforms dramatically with the seasons, offering two completely different yet equally magnificent experiences.

• Summer (June – September): The Time of Vibrant Blues
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  • The Lakes: The most iconic feature of a summer trip to Banff is the surreal blue color of the glacier-fed lakes. This intense hue is created by “rock flour”—finely ground glacial sediment suspended in the water. As sunlight hits these particles, it reflects back in a way that makes the water appear a brilliant, mesmerizing turquoise. The time window to see this is indeed short; the lakes are typically frozen solid for nine months out of the year, so you only have about a two-month timeframe for the full effect. This is also when you can enjoy activities like canoeing and paddleboarding on the pristine water.
  • The Crowds: The downside to summer’s beauty is that everyone wants to see it. The parking lots at popular spots like Lake Louise and Moraine Lake fill up before sunrise. You’ll be sharing the views with countless other visitors, and finding a quiet moment can be a challenge. The atmosphere is bustling and lively, but requires a good dose of patience and strategic planning.
  • The Trails: All hiking trails are accessible, from short, paved walks to challenging backcountry treks. The wildflowers are in bloom, and the air is filled with the scent of pine and alpine greenery.
• Winter (October – May): A Frozen Wonderland
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  • The Lakes: The vibrant blue is gone, replaced by a pristine, white sheet of ice and snow. But as you’ve observed, this offers a completely new perspective. You can walk right out onto the frozen surfaces of these lakes, something that feels both surreal and exhilarating. It’s an amazing feeling to know you are walking over a massive body of water you only saw from a distance in the summer. Ice skating is a popular activity, especially on the rink carved into Lake Louise by the Fairmont Chateau.
  • The Crowds: While the holiday season and the Ice Magic Festival in January bring crowds, winter overall is a much quieter experience. Check out how quiet it is in this photo, you can see almost no one is at the Fairmont Hotel or on the lake walking.  The park takes on a serene, magical quality. Finding parking is easier, and you can often enjoy the tranquility of the mountain landscape with far fewer people around.
  • The Trails: Many hiking trails are covered in snow, but you can still enjoy activities like snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and guided “ice walks” through stunning frozen canyons. The crisp, cold air and snow-covered peaks create a breathtaking and peaceful backdrop for exploration.

The Itinerary: A North-to-South Journey Through Banff

For a seamless and efficient tour, we highly recommend starting at the northernmost point and working your way south. This minimizes backtracking and allows you to experience the park’s majesty in a logical flow.

1. Peyto Lake

Your first stop is Peyto Lake, a breathtaking, glacier-fed lake shaped like a wolf’s head.

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REMEMBER, THERE IS NO CELL SIGNAL WHEN YOU HEAD TO PEYTO LAKE

• Where to Go: The main attraction is the Peyto Lake Lookout. There’s a short, paved trail from the parking lot that leads to a viewing platform, offering a panoramic view of the lake and the surrounding valley. In the summer, the view from this high vantage point is the most spectacular, with the turquoise water dazzling below. Park in the lot, walk toward the lake bus stop looking thing, then walk the .5 mile trail to the overlook. In the winter, this trail is extremely confusing and very quiet!
• Parking: There is a dedicated parking lot for the lookout, which can get very busy during peak season in the summer. When its warm out, it’s best to arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon to secure a spot. The lot has restroom facilities but the LINE IS SUPER LONG… be careful!
• Cost: No additional cost, as it’s included in your park pass. It was free in July 2025.

2. Bow Lake

Just a short drive south from Peyto Lake on the Icefields Parkway, you’ll find Bow Lake. You also pass this on your way to Peyto lake. While Peyto is best viewed from above, Bow Lake offers a more intimate, waterside experience. By photo below is Bow Lake covered in a sheet of ice.

• Where to Go: The best spot is directly at the main pull-off area, where you can walk along the shore of the lake. The mountains, including the iconic Bow Glacier, provide a dramatic backdrop. The vast surrounding forest and towering canyons are indeed a sight to see, a perfect place to pull over and just admire the scale of the Rockies.
• Parking: There are several pull-off areas and a designated parking lot. Parking is free.
• Cost: Included in your park pass.

3. Lake Louise

Next, head south to the world-famous Lake Louise. This is one of the most popular destinations in the park, and for good reason. Its emerald waters, the majestic Victoria Glacier, and the grand Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise make for an iconic scene.

• Where to Go: The main draw is the lakeshore itself. Take a leisurely walk along the paved path, or for a more challenging hike, venture up to the Lake Agnes Tea House. The view from the “rock you can stand on” is a classic photo spot. In the winter, the lake freezes over, and the chateau hosts an ice skating rink, transforming the entire area into a magical winter scene.
• Parking: This is the biggest challenge at Lake Louise. The main parking lot fills up very early, often by 7 a.m. in the summer. When it’s full, you’ll be directed to a separate overflow lot. A shuttle system operates from the overflow lot to the lake, which is your best bet for a stress-free visit during peak times. In the winter, parking is a bit easier.
• Cost: Included in your park pass. Shuttle fees may apply for the overflow lot.

4. Moraine Lake

Moraine Lake is a true gem, known for its unbelievably vibrant blue-green water set against a backdrop of ten rugged peaks. It’s often where you’ll find the most people, a testament to its beauty.

• Where to Go: The best viewpoint is from the “Rockpile,” a short, easy walk from the parking lot that offers a spectacular panoramic view of the lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks. You can also rent a canoe to paddle on the lake’s pristine waters.
• Parking: Important! As of 2023, personal vehicles are no longer permitted at Moraine Lake. To visit, you must use a shuttle service, book a tour, or bike to the lake. The Parks Canada shuttle operates from a park-and-ride lot off the Trans-Canada Highway. This change was implemented to manage the overwhelming crowds and protect the sensitive environment.
• Cost: Included in your park pass. Shuttle fees may apply.

After the Lakes: The Town of Banff

After a day of exploring the magnificent natural landscapes, the town of Banff provides the perfect place to unwind. It’s a charming mountain town bustling with activity, a stark contrast to the quiet wilderness.

• Eat: Downtown Banff is a foodie’s paradise, offering everything from casual pubs and pizza joints to high-end fine dining. You can find traditional Canadian fare like bison and Alberta beef, or international cuisine to satisfy any craving. Popular choices include the Grizzly House, a fondue restaurant with a unique atmosphere, and Park Distillery, a restaurant and functioning distillery that offers tours and tastings. Many restaurants have patios where you can enjoy your meal with a view of the mountains.
• Shop: Banff Avenue is the main street and is lined with a diverse array of shops. You’ll find everything from high-end outdoor gear and clothing boutiques to souvenir shops filled with Canadian-themed gifts. Browse for local art, handcrafted jewelry, or a new pair of hiking boots. The streets are lively and the mountain backdrop makes for a stunning shopping experience.
• Drink: Whether you’re looking for a craft beer, a classic cocktail, or a warm drink to stave off the winter chill, Banff has you covered. The town is home to several breweries and pubs, including the Banff Ave Brewing Co. Many hotels also have cozy lounges with fireplaces, perfect for relaxing after a long day of touring.

Your journey through Banff, whether it’s a quick day trip from Calgary or a longer stay, is an experience you’ll never forget. The vast and magnificent beauty of the area, combined with the charm of the town, makes it a destination that truly has something for everyone.